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The 19th arrondissement is hardly classic Paris - it’s a slightly run-down outer district that can seem relatively hostile to the unfamiliar. There have been regeneration efforts: in the far north the Parc de la Villette, once an abbatoir, is now a bustling new science museum. But on the whole the 19th still feels shabby and a little uncared for.

Its greatest redeeming feature is the Parc des Buttes Chaumant - it’s one of Paris’ nicest open spaces, with its own small lake and the tall steep hill at its centre crowned with a small folly offering impressive views down over the city.

This doesn’t quite make up for the nineteenth arrondissement’s social problems though, or the weight of social housing, In the evening, at least, much of the 19th could be best avoided.